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Ê May 10 Tapawingo and Peterson will achieve the restaurant's twenty fifth anniversary, and despite months of foreboding rumors, it begins its next year with improvements.

Peterson explained the restaurant's longest shutdown that extended almost six months.Ê "Things are well here. We are up and running. I made the decision to close due to several indicators," he said. "Our chef Jeremy and our pastry chef moved on to new assignments.Ê Winter was approaching and the state of the economy figured in.Ê Added to that was my own health.Ê I had a knee replaced and have had subsequent surgery.Ê It just seemed like a logical time to rest."

Ê Anyone who knows Peterson realizes that "rest" does not mean inactivity. As well, anyone who has been in business for the number of years and at the level of success that he has attained realizes that with rest comes the opportunity to reassess.

"There was an evaluation," he explained.Ê "We thought long and hard about what we will have to do to remain viable. We didn't want to change just to get more customers in. Changing structure just to increase volume was something we didn't want to do. On the other hand, we do want to be thought of as more accessible and would like to serve a wider range of customers."

The strategy has produced some changes, including a new a la carte menu to accompany the traditional tasting menu that provides more choices for diners.Ê Peterson observed a result of this change in this, the first week of their new season.Ê "The other day a young couple came in.Ê They ordered three appetizers and then split an entrŽe.Ê This was just perfect in my estimation.Ê We are looking for a new generation of diners who are interested in more selections.Ê We don't want to be stuck with a reputation of being stodgy and costly."

That said, let there be no mistake that the foundation of Tapawingo's success, that special dining experience, has not been lost or threatened by the new strategy.

After 25 years, the recent shutdown has obviously re-energized Peterson.Ê Along with his own healed physical health, he talks with youthful enthusiasm about the health of the restaurant, and he sees that new luster in three main components.Ê He talks first of the retooled corps in the kitchen. "This is as good a staff as I've ever had. During the closing I put out the word of our needs, and the results have exceeded my expectations," Peterson said. "We have added Tommy Kaszubowski as our new Chef de Cuisine, teaming with Executive Chef Ray Kusmac."

Ê Kaszubowski who has family ties in Alpena, has a culinary pedigree that winds through notable restaurants in the Chicago area.Ê His wife, Marit comes with talent of her own as a pastry chef, having trained in Europe and Mexico City.

Ê Secondly, according to Peterson, "Our veteran service personnel are all back.Ê All the familiar faces are here.Ê They are so proud of the place.Ê They had expressed great concern, but now they are filled with a new enthusiasm.Ê They know how to respond to our customers' expectations.Ê We owe much of our success over the years to these people."

Ê When asked about the third dimension, the proud owner looked about on a brilliant sunny spring day at his property on the lake, the gardens, the tiered porches, the elegant dining rooms.

"This is the third component to our success - this place, this location. It remains a core reason for coming to Tapawingo," Peterson said. "If you were to start a new gourmet restaurant in a small, rather remote location like Ellsworth, experts would probably say that it is illogical. One of our reasons for success though is that we try to make the dining experience here special enough to be worth the effort."

So much of Harlan Peterson's world revolves around food.Ê Even for fun he tells of his love for travel and the associated food experiences.Ê He is from North Dakota, and after 10 years working at Ford Motor and seven at the Rowe Inn, he opened Tapawingo in 1984.

Ê A key to any successful business is its ability to listen to its customers. "We heard the feedback about our menu becoming a bit esoteric, and have responded," Peterson said. "First of all, no one will leave here thinking they haven't gotten enough to eat. There also will always be a beef selection on the menu. Our selection strategy will never deviate from the quality upon which we have based our reputation and for which we have been recognized."

There is newness of spirit here and an excitement as Tapawingo begins its second 25. Their commitment to the community remains vibrant and they continue to employ more than 40 people.

Ê Although the Michigan and national economies are certainly troubled, Peterson believes he has all the pieces in place and a strategy for the future to not only come out on the other side, but also to offer customers a truly enjoyable retreat from those conditions inside the Tapawingo walls.

Ê "We want to be a special restaurant that is cutting edge, but don't ever want to scare people away," Peterson said, and with that, the next chapter begins for one of the most successful restaurant ventures in the history of Michigan commerce.

ÊÊÊ Jeff Kessler can be reached at perkins90@hotmail.com with questions, comments and leads.